The Duck Press: Unveiling the Art of French Cuisine

In the realm of culinary delights, there are unique delicacies, yet clandestinely enjoyed by daring gastronomes in hidden dining spots.

But among the revered and feared, there exists a gem in French cuisine: the duck press. Hailed as one of the most impressive dishes of classical French gastronomy, the duck press, invented by Machenet in 19th century Paris, swiftly gained favor among connoisseurs. Its association with the renowned Chef Frèdèric of La Tour d'Argent further solidified its status as a culinary masterpiece, a legacy upheld by the restaurant to this day.

What exactly is this dish, often criticized as gruesome and archaic? It commences with a roasted duck, a culinary marvel in its own right. The entire bird, including its innards—especially the heart and lungs (though the liver is set aside)—is seasoned, its skin delicately scored, and then roasted. Some chefs, like Daniel Boulud, opt for a marination period of up to two days before swiftly roasting over intense heat until the duck reaches the desired level of rareness.

The spectacle unfolds as the chef presents the beautifully roasted duck to diners' tables. Magret (breasts) and legs are expertly carved and set aside, while the remaining carcass undergoes a captivating transformation. Enter the duck press: a formidable kitchen apparatus, often likened to medieval torture devices, crafted from robust materials like brass. With each turn of the crank, the press exerts increasing pressure, pulverizing bones, liquefying organs, and coaxing out the bird's juices, all channeled through a spout and collected for further refinement.

The resulting elixir, enriched with pureed duck liver, Cognac, and red wine, is meticulously reduced to a deep, almost ebony hue. Diners are then treated to succulent slices of duck breast bathed in the velvety blood sauce, followed by a second course featuring the roasted duck legs and thighs.

While duck presses may be scarce and pressed duck not as fashionable as it once was in 19th-century Paris, the tradition endures, evoking both fascination and reverence. Whether perceived as macabre or sublime, the legacy of the duck press persists, a testament to the enduring allure of French culinary craftsmanship.